Solid cosmetic composition in compact powder form

ABSTRACT

The present invention relates to a solid makeup and/or care cosmetic composition in the form of a compact powder, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: a pulverulent phase, an emulsifying system, a hydrophilic gelling agent, an organic lake, and a hydrophilic active agent with hygroscopic properties, which is present in a content of between 1% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the said composition having a solids content of greater than or equal to 90%. The invention also relates to a process for manufacturing this cosmetic composition from an intermediate composition comprising an aqueous phase, and to a process for coating the skin with the said cosmetic composition.

The present invention targets the field of care and/or makeup solidcosmetic compositions, and more specifically compositions in compactpowder form. The invention also relates to an intermediate compositionfor the preparation of such a cosmetic composition, to a process formanufacturing this cosmetic composition, and to a process for coatingthe skin with the said cosmetic composition.

The galenical forms conventionally adopted for solid compositions aregenerally loose, pressed or compact powders. As non-limitingillustrations of the solid galenical forms more particularly consideredin the field of makeup, mention may be made especially of loose orpressed powders such as foundation powders, face powders and eyeshadows.

The function of the abovementioned powders is mainly to give colour,mattness and even, for those more particularly intended for facial skin,to improve the wear property of a foundation or, if used alone, to givecoverage (foundation powder).

These galenical forms are particularly appreciated by users with regardto their lightness, softness, tack-free aspect or non-greasy feel.

In general, these compositions combine a pulverulent phase that isgenerally predominant with a binder phase usually featured by a liquidfatty phase. The pulverulent phase is formed essentially of fillerscombined with pigments, the amount of these pigments being modified toafford the desired makeup effect, generally a colour effect.

To obtain a composition in solid, compacted form, it is known from theprior art to use compacted makeup powders formed by a mixture of powderswith a fatty binder, which are put in form, for example, by compression.

However, these powders in particular have the drawback of being fragile.Thus, when the percentage of pigments or nacres increases in theproduct, its manufacture and its compacting become complicated or evenimpossible to perform at an industrial level given the quality andproductivity requirements.

Furthermore, if the amount of fatty binder is increased, thiscomposition will have a tendency to become waxy, i.e. to harden duringuse to the point that it cannot be taken up.

It is known practice from the prior art, for the manufacture of suchcompositions, to use volatile organic solvents (isoparaffins,isododecane or isopropanol) used in an industrial process known as a WetProcess, so as to inject one or more foundation powder(s) into arespective cup. These solvents, with a flash point of less than 50° C.,allow fluidization of the powder and thus its placing in form in thecup, and then evaporate off. However, this process may entail risks dueto the release into the atmosphere of organic solvents.

Thus, in order to reduce these risks for the environment and thehandler, the inventors have formulated a composition that is compatiblewith the use of such a process, using, not a hydrocarbon-based compoundas volatile solvent, but water.

However, a problem encountered due to the use of water in such a processis the creation of very strong electrostatic bonds in the saidcomposition, leading to the formation of a very cohesive composition incompact powder form that cannot be taken up sufficiently easily.

Another problem encountered relates to the very presence of waterthroughout the phase of preparation and formation of the makeup powders,i.e. during the steps of dilution, injection, suction and evaporation,up to the total drying of the powder, rendering incompatible the use ofcolouring agents containing a hydrophilic part, of the type such asorganic lakes, which are especially encountered in the ranges ofbright-coloured powder tints.

The reason for this is that, when these organic lakes are used inpowders obtained via the Wet Process with water, part of theircomposition dissolves in the water, resulting in leaching or delaking.This is reflected during injection by a substantial loss of lakes due tothe affinity of the hydrophilic part with the water during the suctionof this water, as a result of which part of the composition of theformula is lost, but above all this dissolution of the organic lakes inthe water continues during the drying phase, which results in slowmigration of the lakes from the core of the product to the surface ofthe makeup powder. The consequence of this following of the path of thewater by the lakes is that, once the product is dry, the surface of theproduct has an accumulation of inhomogeneous, hard lakes, thus makingthe surface of the product particularly unattractive. Specifically, suchan accumulation of lakes at the surface of the product is reflected bythe creation of a thin crust of darker, intense, harder product. Onceremoved, this thin crust leaves the texture usually obtained by the WetProcess with water and a lighter and more uniform tint. However,products having this tint inhomogeneity are unsatisfactory for ourconsumers.

One aim of the present invention is thus to obtain a product thatlimits, or even eliminates, this movement of the organic lakes from thecore of the product to its surface, thus making it possible to obtainpulverulent compositions of homogeneous texture and tint.

One aim of the present invention is thus to obtain makeup compositionsin compact powder form that show good cohesion and good homogenization,while at the same time offering satisfactory cosmetic qualities, thusallowing a uniform makeup result, without any overthickness or anymaterial effect.

An aim of the present invention is also to obtain impact-resistantmakeup compositions in compact powder form.

An aim of the present invention is also to obtain makeup compositions incompact powder form that show good adhesion to the keratin material tobe made up, in particular the face.

An aim of the present invention is also to offer twofold use (wet anddry) for a modulable long-lasting makeup. In particular, an aim of theinvention is to allow the production of a powdery rendering during dryapplication of the makeup composition, and a creamy rendering during wetapplication of this same composition, thus making it possible to varythe optical effects on application.

An aim of the invention is also to obtain makeup compositions in theform of compact powders obtained by means of an industrial process thatis safe for the manufacturer and environmentally friendly. Furthermore,a composition of the foundation powder type very often has the drawbackof drying out the skin, the best ones claiming no drying effect, butunder no circumstances a moisturizing effect.

An aim of the invention is also to obtain makeup compositions in compactpowder form that avoids drying-out of the skin and that even has rapidand remnant skin-moisturizing properties, in the sense that theseproperties are conserved even several hours after application.

To do this, according to a first aspect, one subject of the presentinvention is a solid makeup and/or care cosmetic composition in the formof a compact powder, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

-   -   at least one pulverulent phase,    -   at least one emulsifying system,    -   at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, and    -   at least one organic lake, and

at least one hydrophilic active agent with hygroscopic properties, whichis in a content of greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative tothe total weight of the composition. The said composition preferably hasa content of hygroscopic hydrophilic active agent(s) of greater than orequal to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.This content of active agent(s) is advantageously between, limitsinclusive, 1% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition and better still between 2% and 10% by weight relative tothe total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the active agent(s) are chosen from at least one C₁-C₈and preferably C₁-C₆ (poly)ol and a C₁-C₈ and preferably C₁-C₆(poly)amine, and mixtures thereof.

The term “C₁-C₈ and preferably C₁-C₆ (poly)ol” means a C₁-C₈ andpreferably C₁-C₆ polyol or a C₁-C₈ and preferably C₁-C₆ monoalcohol.

The term “C₁-C₈ and preferably C₁-C₆ polyol” means a compound comprisinga C₁-C₈ and preferably C₁-C₆ hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at leasttwo hydroxyl functions (—OH).

The term “C₁-C₈ and preferably C₁-C₆ monoalcohol” means a compoundcomprising a C₁-C₈ and preferably C₁-C₆ hydrocarbon-based chaincomprising only one hydroxyl function (—OH).

The term “C₁-C₈ and preferably C₁-C₆ (poly)amine” means a C₁-C₈ andpreferably C₁-C₆ polyamine or a C₁-C₈ and preferably C₁-C₆ monoamine.

The term “C₁-C₈ and preferably C₁-C₆ polyamine” means a compoundcomprising a C₁-C₈ and preferably C₁-C₆ hydrocarbon-based chaincomprising at least two primary or secondary amine functions (—NH or—NH₂), preferably primary amine functions (—NH₂).

The term “C₁-C₈ and preferably C₁-C₆ monoamine” means a compoundcomprising a C₁-C₈ and preferably C₁-C₆ hydrocarbon-based chaincomprising only one primary or secondary amine function (—NH or —NH₂),preferably a primary amine function (—NH₂).

Preferably, the active agent(s) are chosen from at least one C₁-C₈ andpreferably C₁-C₆ (poly)ol alone.

More preferably, the active agent(s) are chosen from at least one C₁-C₈and preferably C₁-C₆ (poly)ol mixed with a C₁-C₈ and preferably C₁-C₆polyamine.

Preferably, the active agent(s) are chosen from ethanol, sorbitol,glycerine, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol,diglycerine, and a mixture thereof, glycerol and derivatives thereof,urea and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.

More preferentially, the active agent(s) are chosen from glycerine,ethanol, sorbitol, urea and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferentially, the active agent(s) are chosen from glycerine,urea and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.

Such a composition preferably obtained via an injection manufacturingprocess using water as dilution solvent especially has the advantage ofallowing good structuring of the powder.

Such a composition preferably obtained via an injection manufacturingprocess using water as dilution solvent not only has the advantage ofallowing good structuring of the powder, but also of allowing this waterto be used as a vector for hydrophilic agents, especially water-solubleagents.

Furthermore, such a composition formed by virtue of the presence ofwater, even if there is little or no trace of this water in the finalproduct after the drying step, makes it possible to conserve acomposition that is suitable for rehydration. This principle makes theproduct ideal for wet or dry use.

Furthermore, the texture of such a composition allows the application tothe skin of a smooth, uniform film, which has good wear properties.Finally, despite the possible presence of a large amount of colouringagents, this compact composition remains particularly resistant toimpacts.

More particularly, such a composition combining in particular an organiclake with a hydrophilic active agent makes it possible to obtain makeuppowders, for example such as face powders or eyeshadows, of homogeneoustexture and tint, which show little or no migration of the organiclake(s) used.

Such a composition may moreover make it possible to obtain makeuppowders that give a good aesthetic quality for the powder obtained. Sucha powder can also give good skin-moisturizing results, and may comprisea large content of colouring agents such as lakes, pigments and/ornacres, for example ranging from 20% to 80% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition, without weakening the product, andwhile conserving good uptake qualities.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises aspulverulent phase at least one filler, the said filler and the saidhydrophilic gelling agent preferably being distinct.

For the purposes of the present invention, the following definitionsapply:

-   -   “solid” means the state of the composition at room temperature        (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), i.e. a        composition of high consistency, which conserves its form during        storage. As opposed to “fluid” compositions, it does not flow        under its own weight. It is advantageously characterized by a        hardness as defined below.    -   “compact powder” means a mass of product whose cohesion is at        least partly provided by compacting or pressing during the        manufacture. In particular, by taking a measurement using a        TA.XT.plus Texture Analyser texturometer sold by the company        Stable Micro Systems, the compact powder according to the        invention may advantageously have a pressure resistance of        between 0.1 and 2.5 kg and especially between 0.2 and 1.0 kg,        relative to the surface area of the spindle used (in the present        case 7.07 mm²). The measurement of this resistance is performed        by moving an SMS P/3 flat-headed cylindrical spindle over a        distance of 1.5 mm and at a speed of 0.5 mm/sec.    -   “physiologically acceptable medium” is intended to denote a        medium that is particularly suitable for the application of a        composition according to the invention to the skin.

The term “hygroscopic” denotes hydrophilic active agents comprising atleast one function that is capable of forming hydrogen bonds with water.In particular, O—H and N—H bonds are essentially concerned. Underfavourable orientation conditions, hydrogen bonds may form between thesemolecules. In other words, the hydrogen bonds (or H bonds) may appearonce a polar hydrogen is close to an atom bearing lone pairs (mainlyoxygen and nitrogen in biomolecules). The formation of hydrogen bonds isa manner for the water molecules of “attaching themselves” to solutemolecules, in the present case an active agent preferably chosen fromurea, glycerine, ethanol and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof. As withionic hydration, the hydrogen bonds contribute towards the dissolutionof organic molecules in water.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises lessthan 3% by weight and preferably less than 2% by weight of waterrelative to the total weight, or even is free of water.

The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises asolids content of greater than or equal to 90%, better still 95%, oreven 97%.

For the purposes of the present invention, the “solids content” denotesthe content of non-volatile matter.

The solids content (abbreviated as SC) of a composition according to theinvention is measured using a “Halogen Moisture Analyzer HR 73”commercial halogen desiccator from Mettler Toledo. The measurement isperformed on the basis of the weight loss of a sample dried by halogenheating, and thus represents the percentage of residual matter once thewater and the volatile matter have evaporated off.

This technique is fully described in the machine documentation suppliedby Mettler Toledo.

The measuring protocol is as follows:

Approximately 2 g of the composition, referred to hereinbelow as thesample, are spread out on a metal crucible, which is placed in thehalogen desiccator mentioned above. The sample is then subjected to atemperature of 105° C. until a constant weight is obtained. The wet massof the sample, corresponding to its initial mass, and the dry mass ofthe sample, corresponding to its mass after halogen heating, aremeasured using a precision balance.

The experimental error associated with the measurement is of the orderof plus or minus 2%.

The solids content is calculated in the following manner:

Solids content(expressed as weight percentage)=100×(dry mass/wet mass).

The organic lake(s) are chosen from cochineal carmine, organic pigmentsof azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline,triphenylmethane or fluorane dyes, and sodium, potassium, calcium,barium, aluminium, zirconium, strontium or titanium insoluble salts,acidic dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene,quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluorane dyes, these dyes possiblycomprising at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group, and mixturesthereof.

The organic lake(s) present in the compositions in accordance with theinvention are preferably present in a content of greater than or equalto 0.01% by weight, better still 0.1% by weight and preferentially 0.5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, such as,preferably, between 0.01% and 30% by weight and more preferentiallybetween 0.5% and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

The composition may comprise a pulverulent phase in an amount of greaterthan or equal to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition. The pulverulent phase may comprise a filler and anadditional colouring agent (i.e. other than an organic lake) chosen fromnacres, mineral pigments and reflective particles, and mixtures thereof.The said composition may have a content of additional colouring agent(s)of between, limits inclusive, 5% and 80% by weight relative to the totalweight of the composition, advantageously ranging from 10% to 70% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one particular embodiment, the said composition may have anacre content of between 30% and 70% by weight relative to the totalweight of the composition, advantageously greater than or equal to 40%by weight, better still 50%, or even 55%, relative to the total weightof the composition.

According to one embodiment variant, the said composition may have anacre content of less than or equal to 5% by weight or even 2% by weightrelative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one particular embodiment, the emulsifying system of thecomposition is chosen from at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLBof less than or equal to 8, preferably less, at 25° C. It mayadditionally comprise an anionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant andan amphoteric surfactant, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the saidsurfactant is chosen from saccharide esters and ethers, fatty acidesters, oxyalkylenated alcohols, fatty alcohols and silicone compounds.

According to one particular embodiment, the said surfactant is chosenfrom an emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer, advantageously frompolyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomers and polyoxyalkylenatedorganopolysiloxane elastomers.

As a variant or additionally, the said composition may comprise anon-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer.

The said organopolysiloxane elastomer may be present in a solids contentof between 0.5% and 8% relative to the total weight of the composition.

The said composition advantageously comprises an organic non-volatileoil present in a content of greater than or equal to 1% by weightrelative to the total weight of the composition. The non-volatile oil(s)may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based and silicone non-volatile oils, anda mixture thereof.

The hydrophilic gelling agent(s) may be chosen from thickening fillers,polymeric thickeners and associative polymers.

According to one particular embodiment, the said composition comprises achelating agent, advantageously chosen from aminocarboxylic acids suchas tetrasodium EDTA.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is an eyeshadow,an eyebrow composition, a face powder, a blusher or a powder that may beapplied to the face. Even more preferentially, the composition is a facepowder or an eyeshadow.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the said solidmakeup and/or care cosmetic composition that is in the form of a compactpowder comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, limitsinclusive and expressed as weight of solids for each of the compoundsconsidered, relative to the total weight of the composition, at least:

-   -   0.5% to 3% of an emulsifying system, in particular at least one        nonionic surfactant with an HLB of less than 8, such as sorbitan        stearate,    -   1% to 3% of hydrophilic gelling agent, in particular at least        one thickening filler such as a clay,    -   0.01% to 30% of organic lakes,    -   10% to 70% of colouring agents, chosen in particular from at        least one pigment and a nacre, and mixtures thereof, preferably        50% to 70% of colouring agents chosen from at least one nacre,    -   0.5% to 10% of at least one active agent, which is preferably of        C₁-C₆, comprising at least one function that is capable of        forming hydrogen bonds with water, preferably at least one        hygroscopic function, chosen, for example, from moisturizers,        cicatrizing agents and/or anti-ageing agents, for the skin,        preferably chosen from glycerine, urea, ethanol and sorbitol,        and mixtures thereof,    -   1% to 15% of a non-volatile oil, advantageously        hydrocarbon-based and silicone non-volatile oils, and a mixture        thereof,    -   0 to 3% of water, and    -   optionally 0.5% to 10% of organopolysiloxane elastomer, for        example of INCI name dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone copolymer.

According to a second aspect of the invention, a composition accordingto the invention is preferably obtained from an intermediatecomposition. Such an intermediate composition intended to beinjection-moulded preferably comprises a non-volatile phase,corresponding to the components found in the composition to be appliedby the user, and a volatile phase, preferably formed from water, used assolvent to allow the injection moulding of the said composition, whichis intended to be at least partially or even totally removed from thesaid composition to be applied by the user. This intermediatecomposition has a water content of 30% to 60% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition. It also preferably comprises anon-volatile phase, present in a content of 40% to 70% by weightrelative to the total weight of the composition.

Such a composition is intended to be passed through a machine such asthe Pilote Back Injection Machine sold by the company Nanyo Co. Ltd(Japan). This composition is injected into one or more moulds, or cups,from which the water conveying the pulverulent phase is then removed.This water may advantageously be removed by placing under vacuum and/orstoving and/or drying by microwave irradiation and/or lyophilizationand/or drying by infrared irradiation. The advantage of such machines isthat they can be fitted with several injection heads, thus making itpossible easily and simultaneously to prepare several differentcompositions in compact powder form, for example of different shades.

According to a third aspect, a subject of the present invention is alsoa process for manufacturing a makeup and/or care cosmetic compositionfrom an intermediate composition as defined above. This processcomprises the steps:

-   -   of injection into a cup or mould, preferably via its base, of        the said intermediate composition, and    -   of removal of the aqueous phase from the said intermediate        composition, preferably at least partly simultaneously with the        said injection step, via any suitable means.

The said at least one hydrophilic active agent is advantageouslypredispersed in the aqueous phase before being placed in contact withthe pulverulent phase for the injection step.

The step of removing the aqueous phase may preferably be performed via astep of placing the said composition under vacuum, which preferablytakes place simultaneously with the injection step, preferably followed,once the injection step is complete, by a step of oven-drying until theweight of the said makeup and/or care composition is stable.

According to a fourth aspect, a subject of the present invention is alsoa non-therapeutic process for making up or caring for keratin materials,in particular the skin and especially facial skin, in which acomposition as defined previously is applied to the said keratinmaterials.

Pulverulent Phase

The pulverulent phase comprises colouring agents and fillers.

A solid composition according to the invention advantageously has acontent of pulverulent phase of greater than or equal to 35% by weight,in particular greater than or equal to 40% by weight, more particularlyranging from 45% to 90% by weight and better still from 50% to 70% byweight relative to its total weight.

Colouring Agents

A composition according to the invention comprises one or more organiclakes as colouring agent(s) or dyestuff.

Organic Lakes

As stated above, a composition according to the invention comprises atleast one organic lake, also generically known as an organic pigment.

Organic lakes are organic pigments formed from a dye attached to asubstrate.

These organic lakes may be provided in the composition according to theinvention in free form and/or as a coating or ingredient of anothercompound or starting material (such as a nacre).

The term “pigments” should be understood as meaning white or colouredand inorganic or organic particles which are insoluble in an aqueoussolution and which are intended to colour and/or opacify the resultingfilm.

The organic lake(s) are advantageously chosen from the materials below,and mixtures thereof:

-   -   cochineal carmine;    -   organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene,        pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluorane dyes. Among the        organic pigments, mention may be made especially of those known        under the following names: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C        Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No.        5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red        No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red        No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red        No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C        Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow        No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C        Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6;    -   insoluble sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminium,        zirconium, strontium or titanium salts of acid dyes such as azo,        anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline,        triphenylmethane or fluoran dyes, these dyes possibly comprising        at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group.

The organic lakes may also be supported on an organic support such asrosin or aluminium benzoate, for example.

Among the organic lakes, mention may in particular be made of thoseknown under the following names: D&C Red No. 2 Aluminium lake, D&C RedNo. 3 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 4 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 6Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 6Barium/Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 6Potassium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Sodium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Aluminium lake,D&C Red No. 7 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 7Calcium/Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 8Sodium lake, D&C Red No. 9 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 9 Barium lake,D&C Red No. 9 Barium/Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 9 Zirconium lake, D&CRed No. 10 Sodium lake, D&C Red No. 19 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 19Barium lake, D&C Red No. 19 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 21 Aluminiumlake, D&C Red No. 21 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 22 Aluminium lake, D&CRed No. 27 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 27 Aluminium/Titanium/Zirconiumlake, D&C Red No. 27 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 27 Calcium lake, D&C RedNo. 27 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 28 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 28Sodium lake, D&C Red No. 30 lake, D&C Red No. 31 Calcium lake, D&C RedNo. 33 Aluminium lake, D&C Red No. 34 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 36 lake,D&C Red No. 40 Aluminium lake, D&C Blue No. 1 Aluminium lake, D&C GreenNo. 3 Aluminium lake, D&C Orange No. 4 Aluminium lake, D&C Orange No. 5Aluminium lake, D&C Orange No. 5 Zirconium lake, D&C Orange No. 10Aluminium lake, D&C Orange No. 17 Barium lake, D&C Yellow No. 5Aluminium lake, D&C Yellow No. 5 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow No. 6Aluminium lake, D&C Yellow No. 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow No. 10Aluminium lake, FD&C Blue No. 1 Aluminium lake, FD&C Red No. 4 Aluminiumlake, FD&C Red No. 40 Aluminium lake, FD&C Yellow No. 5 Aluminium lake,FD&C Yellow No. 6 Aluminium lake.

The chemical materials corresponding to each of the organic dyestuffsmentioned previously are mentioned in the publication “InternationalCosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook”, 1997 edition, pages 371 to386 and 524 to 528, published by The Cosmetic, Toiletries and FragranceAssociation, the content of which is incorporated into the presentpatent application by reference.

According to one preferred embodiment, the organic lake(s) are chosenfrom cochineal carmine, sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminium,zirconium, strontium or titanium insoluble salts, and acidic dyes suchas azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline,triphenylmethane or fluorane dyes, these dyes possibly comprising atleast one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group, and mixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment, the organic lake(s) are chosenfrom cochineal carmine and sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminiuminsoluble salts, calcium insoluble salts and sodium insoluble salts, andmixtures thereof.

As a lake incorporating carmine, mention may be made of the commercialreferences Carmin Covalac W 3508, Cloisonne Red 424C and Chroma-liteMagenta CL4505.

The insoluble aluminium salts are preferably chosen from FDC Yellow No.5 aluminium lake, FDC Blue No. 1 aluminium lake, FDC Red No. 40aluminium lake, FDC Red No. 30 aluminium lake and FDC Green No. 5aluminium lake, and mixtures thereof. As particular examples of lakes orcompounds incorporating such organic lakes, mention may be madeespecially the commercial references Intenza Firefly C91-1211, IntenzaAzure Allure C91-1251 and Intenza Think Pink C91-1236.

The insoluble calcium salts are preferably chosen from Red No. 7 calciumlake. As particular examples of lakes or compounds incorporating suchorganic lakes, mention may be made especially the commercial referencesIntenza Magentitude C91-1234, Intenza Haute Pink C91-1232, IntenzaRazzled Rose C91-1231, Intenza Amethyst Force C91-7231, Intenza PlushPlum C91-7441, Intenza Electric Coral C91-1233 andFlorasomes-Jojoba-SMS-10% Cellini Red-Natural, and mixtures thereof.

The insoluble sodium salts are preferably chosen from Red No. 6 sodiumlake and Red No. 28 sodium lake, and a mixture thereof. As particularexamples of lakes or compounds incorporating such organic lakes, mentionmay be made especially the commercial references Intenza Mango TangoC91-1221 and Intenza Nitro Pink C91-1235.

The organic lakes may be present in a total content ranging from 0.01%to 20% by weight, especially from 0.05% to 15% by weight, in particularfrom 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.3% to 5% byweight and even more preferentially between 0.5% and 2% by weight,relative to the total weight of the composition.

A composition according to the invention also advantageously comprisesat least one additional colouring agent (other than an organic lake)chosen from mineral pigments, nacres and reflective particles, andmixtures thereof. The said composition may have a content of additionalcolouring agent(s) of between, limits inclusive, 5% and 80% by weightrelative to the total weight of the composition, advantageously rangingfrom 10% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

Mineral Pigments

The term “mineral pigments” should be understood as meaning white orcoloured, mineral or organic particles of any shape, which are insolublein the physiological medium, and which are intended to colour thecomposition.

The mineral pigments may be white or coloured.

Among the mineral pigments that may be mentioned are titanium dioxide,optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and alsozinc oxide, iron (black, yellow or red) oxide or chromium oxide,manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue,and metal powders, for instance aluminium powder and copper powder. Acomposition according to the invention may comprise a content of mineralpigments ranging from 0 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight ofthe composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 30% by weight andpreferentially ranging from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the totalweight of the composition.

Nacres

The terms “nacres” should be understood as meaning coloured particles ofany form, which may or may not be iridescent, especially produced bycertain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and whichhave a colour effect via optical interference.

Examples of nacres that may be mentioned include nacreous pigments suchas titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuthoxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, and nacreouspigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particlesat the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers ofmetal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.

The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze,orange, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or glint.

As illustrations of nacres that may be introduced into the composition,mention may be made of the gold-coloured nacres sold especially by thecompany Engelhard under the name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C(Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarchgold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold especially by the companyMerck under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353)(Colorona) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super bronze(Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhardunder the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) andby the company Merck under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matteorange (17449) (Microna); the brown nacres sold especially by thecompany Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) andBrown CL4509 (Chromalite); the nacres with a copper tint sold especiallyby the company Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacreswith a red tint sold especially by the company Merck under the nameSienna fine (17386) (Colorona); the nacres with a yellow tint soldespecially by the company Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502)(Chromalite); the red nacres with a gold tint sold especially by thecompany Engelhard under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); the pinknacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Tan opale0005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with a gold tint sold especially by thecompany Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), theblue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matteblue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with a silvery tint soldespecially by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver, and thegolden-green pink-orange nacres sold especially by the company Merckunder the name Indian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.

Still as examples of nacres, mention may also be made of particlescomprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.

Particles having a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide areespecially sold under the name Metashine MC1080RY by the company Toyal.

Finally, examples of nacres that may also be mentioned includepolyethylene terephthalate flakes, especially those sold by the companyMeadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver 1P 0.004X0.004 (silverflakes).

The compositions according to the invention may comprise, limitsinclusive, from 10% to 80%, for example from 20% to 70% and better stillfrom 30% to 60% by weight of nacres relative to the total weight ofcolouring agents. In particular, they may comprise a content of greaterthan or equal to 50% by weight of nacres relative to the total weight ofcolouring agents.

The compositions according to the invention may comprise from 20% to90%, for example from 30% to 80% and better still from 50% to 75% byweight of nacres relative to the total weight of the pulverulent phase.In particular, they may comprise a content of greater than or equal to50% by weight of nacres relative to the total weight of the pulverulentphase.

The compositions according to the invention may comprise from 10% to80%, for example from 20% to 70% and better still from 30% to 60% byweight of nacres relative to the total weight of the composition. Inparticular, they may comprise a content of greater than or equal to 50%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According toone particular embodiment, the compositions according to the inventionmay comprise less than 20% by weight of nacres, or even less than 5% ofnacres. According to one particular embodiment, the compositionsaccording to the invention may comprise a content of greater than orequal to 1% by weight of nacres relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

Reflective Particles

The term “reflective particles” denotes particles whose size, structure,especially the thickness of the layer(s) of which they are made andtheir physical and chemical nature, and surface state, allow them toreflect incident light. This reflection may, where appropriate, have anintensity sufficient to create at the surface of the composition or ofthe mixture, when it is applied to the support to be made up, points ofoverbrightness that are visible to the naked eye, i.e. more luminouspoints that contrast with their environment by appearing to sparkle.

The reflective particles may be selected so as not to significantlyalter the colouration effect generated by the colouring agents withwhich they are combined, and more particularly so as to optimize thiseffect in terms of colour yield. They may more particularly have ayellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery colour ortint.

These particles may have varied forms and may especially be in plateletor globular form, in particular in spherical form.

The reflective particles, whatever their form, may or may not have amultilayer structure and, in the case of a multilayer structure, mayhave, for example, at least one layer of uniform thickness, inparticular of a reflective material.

When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, theymay be composed, for example, of metal oxides, especially titanium oriron oxides obtained synthetically.

When the reflective particles have a multilayer structure, they maycomprise, for example, a natural or synthetic substrate, especially asynthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer ofa reflective material, especially of at least one metal or metallicmaterial. The substrate may be made of one or more organic and/orinorganic materials.

More particularly, it may be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite,metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, especially aluminosilicatesand borosilicates, and synthetic mica, and mixtures thereof, this listnot being limiting.

The reflective material may comprise a layer of metal or of a metallicmaterial.

Reflective particles are described especially in documentsJP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 andJP-A-05017710.

Again as an example of reflective particles comprising a mineralsubstrate coated with a layer of metal, mention may also be made ofparticles comprising a silver-coated borosilicate substrate.

Particles with a silver-coated glass substrate, in the form ofplatelets, are sold under the name Microglass Metashine REFSX 2025 PS bythe company Toyal. Particles with a glass substrate coated withnickel/chromium/molybdenum alloy are sold under the name Crystal Star GF550 and GF 2525 by this same company.

Use may also be made of particles comprising a metallic substrate suchas silver, aluminium, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper,zinc, tin, manganese, steel, bronze or titanium, said substrate beingcoated with at least one layer of at least one metal oxide such astitanium oxide, aluminium oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromiumoxide or silicon oxides, and mixtures thereof.

Examples that may be mentioned include aluminium powder, bronze powderor copper powder coated with SiO₂ sold under the name Visionaire by thecompany Eckart.

Fillers

The term “fillers” should be understood as meaning colourless or whitesolid particles of any form, which are in a form that is insoluble anddispersed in the medium of the composition. Mineral or organic innature, they make it possible to confer softness, mattness anduniformity of makeup on the composition.

The fillers used in the compositions according to the present inventionmay be in lamellar, globular or spherical form, in the form of fibres orin any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated,and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, aminoacids, fluoro derivatives or any other substance that promotes thedispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

Among the mineral fillers that may be used in the compositions accordingto the invention, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, magnesiumaluminium silicate, trimethyl siloxysilicate, kaolin, bentone, calciumcarbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride,hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads from Maprecos), glass orceramic microcapsules, silica-based fillers, for instance Aerosil 200 orAerosil 300; Sunsphere H-33 and Sunsphere H-51 sold by Asahi Glass;Chemicelen sold by Asahi Chemical; composites of silica and of titaniumdioxide, for instance the TSG series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass, perlitepowders and fluorphlogopite, and mixtures thereof.

Among the organic fillers that may be used, mention may be made ofpolyamide powders (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), poly-β-alanine powdersand polyethylene powders, polytetrafluoroethylene powders (Teflon®),lauroyllysine, starch, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, hollowpolymer microspheres, for example comprising an (alkyl)acrylate, such asExpancel® (Nobel Industrie), metal soaps derived from organic carboxylicacids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 18carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithiumstearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore® L200 (ChemdalCorporation), silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearl® fromToshiba), polyurethane powders, in particular powders of crosslinkedpolyurethane comprising a copolymer, the said copolymer comprisingtrimethylol hexyl lactone, for instance the hexamethylenediisocyanate/trimethylol hexyl lactone polymer sold under the namePlastic Powder D-400® or Plastic Powder D-800® by the company Toshiki,carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic microwaxes, such as theproduct sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company MicroPowders, microwaxes formed from a mixture of carnauba wax andpolyethylene wax, such as those sold under the names Micro Care 300® and310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes formed from a mixture ofcarnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under thename Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylenemicrowaxes, such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®,220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders; fibres of synthetic ornatural, mineral or organic origin. They may be short or long,individual or organized, for example braided, and hollow or solid. Theymay have any shape and may especially have a circular or polygonal(square, hexagonal or octagonal) cross section depending on the specificapplication envisaged. In particular, their ends are blunted and/orpolished to prevent injury. The fibres have a length ranging from 1 μmto 10 mm, preferably from 0.1 mm to 5 mm and better still from 0.3 mm to3 mm. Their cross section may be included in a circle with a diameterranging from 2 nm to 500 μm, preferably ranging from 100 nm to 100 μmand better still from 1 μm to 50 μm. As fibres that can be used in thecompositions according to the invention, mention may be made ofnon-rigid fibres such as polyamide (Nylon®) fibres or rigid fibres suchas polyimideamide fibres, for instance those sold under the namesKermel® and Kermel Tech® by the company Rhodia orpoly(p-phenyleneterephthalamide) (or aramid) fibres sold especiallyunder the name Kevlar® by the company DuPont de Nemours,

and mixtures thereof.

As representatives of such fillers preferably used in the context of thepresent invention, mention may be made especially of talc, starch,fluorphlogopite, clays such as magnesium aluminium silicate, or hollowpolymer microspheres.

The fillers may be present in the composition in a content ranging from5% to 60% by weight and preferably from 10% to 25% by weight relative tothe total weight of the composition. As stated above, a compositionaccording to the invention preferably also comprises a colouring agentin its pulverulent phase.

Aqueous Phase

The intermediate composition used in the injection-moulding processaccording to the invention comprises an aqueous phase in a proportion offrom 40% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

This aqueous phase is subsequently at least partly removed in the saidcomposition to be applied by the user, which may finally comprise lessthan 3% by weight of water relative to the total weight of thecomposition, or even less than 2% by weight of water, or alternativelyis free of water. This removal of water may be performed by any suitablemeans. It may especially be performed, as a variant or additionally,placing under vacuum, oven-drying, ventilation, lyophilization orheating, or alternatively by microwave or infrared radiation. Accordingto one preferred embodiment, this water removal step takes place bysuction via a system for placing under vacuum the said intermediatecomposition present in the cup, and also during a step of drying in aventilated oven, for example at 50° C., of the said intermediatecomposition until the weight of the said composition no longer changes.

The composition according to the invention thus generally comprises anaqueous phase, which may be termed residual, corresponding to thecontent of water not removed during the injection-moulding step.

This aqueous phase, when present, is used in an amount that iscompatible with the pulverulent galenical form required according to theinvention.

The aqueous phase may be a demineralized water or alternatively a floralwater such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittelwater, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.

Hydrophilic Gelling Agents

The composition according to the invention comprises one or morehydrophilic gelling agent(s).

For the purposes of the present patent application, the term“hydrophilic gelling agent” means a compound that is capable of gellingthe aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention. Moreparticularly, the function of these hydrophilic gelling agents is tostructure the aqueous phase of the intermediate composition, so as tomaintain a structured composition once the water has been removed fromthe said composition. This gelling agent may be introduced with theaqueous phase of the intermediate composition or with the pulverulentphase. This gelling agent is advantageously soluble in the aqueous phaseof the intermediate composition.

The gelling agent that may be used according to the invention mayespecially be characterized by its capacity to form in water, beyond acertain concentration C*, a gel characterized by oscillatory rheology(μ=1 Hz) by a flow threshold τ_(c) at least equal to 10 Pa. Thisconcentration C* may vary widely according to the nature of the gellingpolymer under consideration.

The gelling agent may be present in the composition in an amount that issufficient to adjust the stiffness modulus G* (1 Hz, 25° C.) of thecomposition to a value greater than or equal to 10 000 Pa and especiallyranging from 10 000 Pa to 100 000 Pa.

The method for measuring these parameters of the composition isdescribed, for example, in patent application EP 1 534 218 in theparagraph entitled “rheological characterization”.

It is understood that the alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal ortransition metal salts, such as zinc stearate, zinc myristate ormagnesium stearate are not considered within the meaning of the presentinvention as hydrophilic gelling agents. Specifically, such compoundsserve first and foremost as fillers, and in particular as agents forcompacting the pulverulent phase.

Thickening Fillers

Thickening fillers may fulfil this function as aqueous-phase gellingagents. Such fillers preferably comprise a clay that is capable ofswelling in water and/or hollow mineral or organic microspheres.

The clay present in the composition according to the invention is claythat is capable of swelling in water; this clay swells in water andforms after hydration a colloidal dispersion.

Clays are products that are already well known per se, which aredescribed, for example, in the publication Minéralogie des argiles[Mineralogy of Clays], S. Caillère, S. Hénin, M. Rautureau, 2nd Edition1982, Masson.

Clays are silicates containing a cation advantageously chosen fromcalcium, magnesium, aluminium, sodium, potassium and lithium cations,and mixtures thereof.

Examples of such products that may be mentioned include clays of thesmectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites,beidellites and saponites, and also of the vermiculite, stevensite andchlorite families

These clays may be of natural or synthetic origin. Clays that arecosmetically compatible and acceptable with the skin are preferablyused.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment of the presentinvention, the clay used, that is capable of swelling in water, ischosen from montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellite andsaponites, and more particularly hectorites and bentonites.

As clays that are capable of swelling in water which may be usedaccording to the invention, mention may be made of synthetic hectorites(also known as laponites), for instance the products sold by the companyLaporte under the name Laponite XLG, Laponite RD and Laponite RDS (theseproducts are sodium magnesium silicates and in particular sodium lithiummagnesium silicates); bentonites, for instance the product sold underthe name Bentone HC by the company Rheox; magnesium aluminium silicates,especially hydrated, for instance the product sold by the VanderbiltCompany under the name Veegum Ultra, or calcium silicates and especiallythe product in synthetic form sold by the company under the nameMicro-cel C.

Preferably, when a thickening filler is used as hydrophilic gellingagent, such as a clay, at least one distinct additional filler isprovided in the said pulverulent phase of the composition.

The clay may be present in the composition in a content ranging from0.5% to 5% by weight and better still from 1% to 3% by weight relativeto the total weight of the composition.

Polymeric Hydrophilic Thickeners

More particularly, this gelling agent may be chosen from the followingpolymeric thickeners:

-   -   acrylic or methacrylic acid homopolymers or copolymers or salts        and esters thereof and in particular the products sold under the        names Versicol F or Versicol K by the company Allied Colloid,        Ultrahold 8 by the company Ciba-Geigy, and polyacrylic acids of        Synthalen K type, and salts, especially sodium salts, of        polyacrylic acids (corresponding to the INCI name sodium        acrylate copolymer) and more particularly a crosslinked sodium        polyacrylate (corresponding to the INCI name sodium acrylate        copolymer (and) caprylic/capric triglycerides) sold under the        name Luvigel EM by the company,        -   copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the            form of the sodium salt thereof under the names Reten by the            company Hercules, the sodium polymethacrylate sold under the            name Darvan No. 7 by the company Vanderbilt, and the sodium            salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name            Hydagen F by the company Henkel,        -   polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers, preferably            modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers; the copolymers            most particularly preferred according to the present            invention are acrylate/C₁₀-C₃₀-alkylacrylate copolymers            (INCI name: Acrylates/C₁₀₋₃₀ Alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer)            such as the products sold by the company Lubrizol under the            trade names Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382 and            Carbopol ETD 2020, and even more preferentially Pemulen            TR-2;    -   AMPS (polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid partially        neutralized with aqueous ammonia and highly crosslinked) sold by        the company Clariant,        -   AMPS/acrylamide copolymers such as the products Sepigel or            Simulgel sold by the company SEPPIC, especially a copolymer            of INCI name Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and)            Laureth-7.        -   polyoxyethylenated AMPS/alkyl methacrylate copolymers            (crosslinked or non-crosslinked) of the type such as            Aristoflex HMS sold by the company Clariant,    -   and mixtures thereof.

Other examples of polymeric thickeners that may be mentioned include:

-   -   anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan        polymers;        -   cellulose polymers, other than alkylcellulose, chosen from            hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose,            hydroxymethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and            carboxymethylcellulose, and also quaternized cellulose            derivatives;    -   vinyl polymers, for instance polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers        of methyl vinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of        vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid, copolymers of        vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of        vinylpyrrolidone and of caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol;    -   optionally modified polymers of natural origin, such as:        galactomannans and derivatives thereof, such as konjac gum,        gellan gum, locust bean gum, fenugreek gum, karaya gum, gum        tragacanth, gum arabic, acacia gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl        guar, hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate        groups (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia), hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium        guar chloride, and xanthan derivatives;    -   alginates and carrageenans;    -   glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof;    -   deoxyribonucleic acid;        -   mucopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid and chondroitin            sulfates, and mixtures thereof.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the gelling agent ischosen from associative polymers.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “associativepolymer” means any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure atleast one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion. Theassociative polymers in accordance with the present invention may beanionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric.

Associative Anionic Polymers

Among the associative anionic polymers that may be mentioned are thosecomprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one fatty-chainallyl ether unit, more particularly those whose hydrophilic unit isformed by an unsaturated ethylenic anionic monomer, advantageously by avinylcarboxylic acid and most particularly by an acrylic acid or amethacrylic acid or mixtures thereof, and whose fatty-chain allyl etherunit corresponds to the monomer of formula (I) below:

CH₂═C(R′)CH₂OB_(n)R  (I)

in which R′ denotes H or CH₃, B denotes an ethylenoxy radical, n is 0 ordenotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100, and R denotes ahydrocarbon-based radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryland cycloalkyl radicals containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably10 to 24 and even more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are described and prepared,according to an emulsion polymerization process, in patent EP-0 216 479.

Among the associative anionic polymers that may also be mentioned aremaleic anhydride/C₃₀-C₃₈ α-olefin/alkyl maleate terpolymers, such as theproduct (maleic anhydride/C₃₀-C₃₈ α-olefin/isopropyl maleate copolymer)sold under the name Performa V 1608 by the company NewphaseTechnologies.

Among the associative anionic polymers, it is possible, according to onepreferred embodiment, to use copolymers comprising among their monomersan α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of anα,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of anoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.

Preferentially, these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of anα,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a C₁-C₄alcohol.

Examples of compounds of this type that may be mentioned include Aculyn22® sold by the company Röhm & Haas, which is a methacrylic acid/ethylacrylate/oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate (comprising 20 OE units)terpolymer or Aculyn 28 (methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyethylenatedbehenyl methacrylate (25 OE) terpolymer).

Associative anionic polymers that may also be mentioned include anionicpolymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinicunsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unitexclusively of (C-₁₀-C₃₀)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acidtype. Examples that may be mentioned include the anionic polymersdescribed and prepared according to U.S. Pat. Nos. 3,915,921 and4,509,949.

Cationic Associative Polymers

Cationic associative polymers that may be mentioned include quaternizedcellulose derivatives and polyacrylates bearing amine side groups.

The quaternized cellulose derivatives are, in particular:

-   -   quaternized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least        one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups        comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof,    -   quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups        comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or        alkylaryl groups containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures        thereof.

The polyacrylates bearing quaternized or non-quaternized amine sidegroups contain, for example, hydrophobic groups of the type such assteareth-20 (polyoxyethylenated (20) stearyl alcohol).

The alkyl radicals borne by the above quaternized celluloses orhydroxyethylcelluloses preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthrylgroups.

Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C₈-C₃₀fatty chains that may be indicated include the products Quatrisoft LM200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (C₁₂ alkyl) andQuatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (C₁₈ alkyl) sold by the company Amerchol and theproducts Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C₁₂ alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C₁₈alkyl) sold by the company Croda.

Examples of polyacrylates bearing amino side chains that may bementioned are the polymers 8781-121B or 9492-103 from the companyNational Starch.

Nonionic Associative Polymers

The nonionic associative polymers may be chosen from:

-   -   celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty        chain, for instance hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups        comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl groups,        especially of C₈-C₂₂, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups, such as        Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS(C₁₆ alkyls) sold by the company        Aqualon,    -   celluloses modified with alkylphenyl polyalkylene glycol ether        groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500        (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol (15) ether) sold by the company        Amerchol,        -   guars such as hydroxypropyl guar, modified with groups            comprising at least one fatty chain such as an alkyl chain,        -   copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of fatty-chain            hydrophobic monomers,    -   copolymers of C₁-C₆ alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and of        amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain,    -   copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of        hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, for        instance the polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl        methacrylate copolymer,    -   associative polyurethanes.

Associative polyurethanes are nonionic block copolymers comprising inthe chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylene nature(polyurethanes may also be referred to as polyurethane polyethers), andhydrophobic blocks that may be aliphatic sequences alone and/orcycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences.

In particular, these polymers comprise at least two hydrocarbon-basedlipophilic chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by ahydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being pendentchains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block. In particular, itis possible for one or more pendent chains to be envisaged. In addition,the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at bothends of a hydrophilic block.

Associative polyurethanes may be block polymers, in triblock ormultiblock form. The hydrophobic blocks may thus be at each end of thechain (for example: triblock copolymer containing a hydrophilic centralblock) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example:multiblock copolymer). These polymers may also be graft polymers or starpolymers. Preferably, the associative polyurethanes are triblockcopolymers in which the hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylene chaincomprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. In general, associativepolyurethanes comprise a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks,whence arises the name.

According to one preferred embodiment, a nonionic associative polymer ofpolyurethane polyether type is used as gelling agent.

By way of example of polyurethane polyethers that may not be used in theinvention, mention may be made of the polymer C₁₆-OE₁₂₀-C₁₆ from thecompany Servo Delden (under the name SER AD FX1100, which is a moleculecontaining a urethane function and having a weight-average molecularweight of 1300), OE being an oxyethylene unit.

Rheolate 205 bearing a urea function, sold by the company Rheox, orRheolate 208 or 204, or alternatively Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis ofINCI name Steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI, may also be used as associativepolyurethane polymer. These associative polyurethanes are sold in pureform. The product DW 1206B from Röhm & Haas containing a C₂₀ alkyl chainand a urethane bond, sold at a solids content of 20% in water, may alsobe used.

It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers,in particular in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of suchpolymers that may be mentioned include SER AD FX1010, SER AD FX1035 andSER AD 1070 from the company Servo Delden, and Rheolate 255, Rheolate278 and Rheolate 244 sold by the company Rheox. It is also possible touse the products Aculyn 46, DW 1206F and DW 1206J, and also Acrysol RM184 or Acrysol 44 from the company Röhm & Haas, or alternativelyBorchigel LW 44 from the company Borchers, and mixtures thereof.

According to one preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent ischosen from:

optionally modified hydroxypropyl guar, in particular hydroxypropyl guarmodified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia) orhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar chloride,

vinyl polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol,

anionic associative polymers derived from (meth)acrylic acid, such asthe non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from methacrylic acid andsteareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 22 by Röhm & Haas,

nonionic associative polymers of polyurethane polyether type, such asSteareth-100/PEG-136/HDI Copolymer sold under the name Rheolate FX 1100by Elementis.

According to one preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent ischosen from:

optionally modified hydroxypropyl guar, in particular hydroxypropyl guarmodified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia) orhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar chloride,

anionic associative polymers derived from (meth)acrylic acid, such asthe non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from methacrylic acid andsteareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 22 by Röhm & Haas,

nonionic associative polymers of polyurethane polyether type, such asSteareth-100/PEG-136/HDI Copolymer sold under the name Rheolate FX 1100by Elementis.

Amphoteric Associative Polymers

Among the associative amphoteric polymers of the invention, mention maybe made of crosslinked or non-crosslinked, branched or unbranchedamphoteric polymers, which may be obtained by copolymerization

1) of at least one monomer of formula (IVa) or (IVb):

in which R₄ and R₅, which may be identical or different, represent ahydrogen atom or a methyl radical,

R₆, R₇ and R₈, which may be identical or different, represent a linearor branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms,

Z represents a group NH or an oxygen atom,

n is an integer from 2 to 5,

A⁻ denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as amethosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

in which R₉ and R₁₀, which may be identical or different, represent ahydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

Z₁ represents a group OH or a group NHC(CH₃)₂CH₂SO₃H;

3) of at least one monomer of formula (VI):

in which R₉ and R₁₀, which may be identical or different, represent ahydrogen atom or a methyl radical, X denotes an oxygen or nitrogen atomand R₁₁ denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to30 carbon atoms;

4) optionally at least one crosslinking or branching agent; at least oneof the monomers of formula (IVa), (IVb) or (VI) comprising at least onefatty chain containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and the said compoundsof the monomers of formulae (IVa), (IVb), (V) and (VI) possibly beingquaternized, for example with a C₁-C₄ alkyl halide or a C₁-C₄ dialkylsulfate.

The monomers of formulae (IVa) and (IVb) of the present invention arepreferably chosen from the group formed by:

-   -   dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, dimethylaminoethyl acrylate,    -   dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, dimethylaminoethyl acrylate,    -   dimethylaminopropyl methacrylate, dimethylaminopropyl acrylate,    -   dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide or        dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, optionally quaternized, for        example with a C₁-C₄ alkyl halide or a C₁-C₄ dialkyl sulfate.

More particularly, the monomer of formula (IVa) is chosen fromacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride andmethacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

The compounds of formula (V) of the present invention are preferablychosen from the group formed by acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonicacid, 2-methylcrotonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acidand 2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. More particularly,the monomer of formula (V) is acrylic acid.

The monomers of formula (VI) of the present invention are preferablychosen from the group formed by C₁₂-C₂₂ and more particularly C₁₆-C₁₈alkyl acrylates or methacrylates.

The crosslinking or branching agent is preferably chosen fromN,N′-methylenebisacrylamide, triallylmethylammonium chloride, allylmethacrylate, n-methylolacrylamide, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylates,ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diethylene glycol dimethacrylate,1,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate and allyl sucrose.

The polymers according to the invention may also contain other monomerssuch as nonionic monomers and in particular C₁-C₄ alkyl acrylates ormethacrylates.

The ratio of the number of cationic charges/anionic charges in theseamphoteric polymers is preferably equal to about 1.

The weight-average molecular weights of the associative amphotericpolymers represents a weight-average molecular mass of greater than 500,preferably between 10 000 and 10 000 000 and even more preferentiallybetween 100 000 and 8 000 000.

Preferably, the associative amphoteric polymers of the invention containfrom 1 mol % to 99 mol %, more preferentially from 20 mol % to 95 mol %and even more preferentially from 25 mol % to 75 mol % of compound(s) offormula (IVa) or (IVb). They also preferably contain from 1 mol % to 80mol %, more preferentially from 5 mol % to 80 mol % and even morepreferentially from 25 mol % to 75 mol % of compound(s) of formula (V).The content of compound(s) of formula (VI) is preferably between 0.1 mol% and 70 mol %, more preferentially between 1 mol % and 50 mol % andeven more preferentially between 1 mol % and 10 mol %. The crosslinkingor branching agent, when it is present, is preferably between 0.0001 mol% and 1 mol % and even more preferentially between 0.0001 mol % and 0.1mol %.

Preferably, the mole ratio between the compound(s) of formula (IVa) or(IVb) and the compound(s) of formula (V) ranges from 20/80 to 95/5 andmore preferentially from 25/75 to 75/25.

The associative amphoteric polymers according to the invention aredescribed, for example, in patent application WO 98/44012.

The amphoteric polymers that are particularly preferred according to theinvention are chosen from acrylic acid/acrylamidopropyltrimethylammoniumchloride/stearyl methacrylate copolymers.

According to one preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent ischosen from:

-   -   clays;    -   optionally modified polymers of natural origin, such as xanthan        gum;    -   AMPS/acrylamide copolymers such as a copolymer of INCI name        Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin Laureth-7, such as        Sepigel;    -   nonionic associative polymers of polyurethane polyether type,        such as a copolymer of INCI name Steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI;

and mixtures thereof.

The hydrophilic gelling agent(s) may be present in the compositionaccording to the invention in a solids content of greater than or equalto 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Inparticular, the hydrophilic gelling agent(s) may be present in thecomposition according to the invention in a solids content ranging from0.5% to 5% by weight and preferably from 1% to 3% by weight relative tothe total weight of the composition.

Hydrophilic Active Agents with Hygroscopic Properties

The composition according to the invention also comprises at least onehydrophilic active agent with hygroscopic properties, which is presentin a total content of greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relativeto the total weight of the said composition, and preferably between 1%and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Advantageously, this total content of active agent(s) is inclusivelybetween 1% and 40% by weight, advantageously between 2% and 30% byweight, more preferentially between 3% and 20% by weight and betterstill between 4% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

These hydrophilic active agent(s) with hygroscopic properties may havemoisturizing (or humectant), cicatrizing and/or anti-ageing propertieson the skin

Advantageously, the active agent(s) are chosen from at least one C₁-C₈and preferably C₁-C₆ (poly)ol and a C₁-C₈ and preferably C₁-C₆(poly)amine, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the active agent(s) are chosen from at least one C₁-C₈ andpreferably C₁-C₆ (poly)ol alone.

More preferably, the active agent(s) are chosen from at least one C₁-C₈and preferably C₁-C₆ (poly)ol mixed with a C₁-C₈ and preferably C₁-C₆polyamine.

Preferably, the active agent is chosen from ethanol, sorbitol,glycerine, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol,diglycerine, and a mixture thereof, glycerol and derivatives thereof,urea and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.

More preferentially, the active agent(s) are chosen from glycerine,ethanol, sorbitol, urea and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferentially, the active agent(s) are chosen from glycerine,urea and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.

The urea and derivatives thereof may be Hydrovance (2-hydroxyethylurea)sold by National Starch.

According to a first advantageous embodiment, a composition inaccordance with the invention comprises either glycerine as hydrophilicactive agent with hygroscopic properties, predominantly and preferablyalone. Preferably, a composition in accordance with the inventioncomprises a weight content of between 4% and 6% by weight of glycerinerelative to the total weight of the composition, such as about 5% byweight.

According to a second advantageous embodiment, a composition inaccordance with the invention comprises a mixture of glycerine and ureapreferably present in a respective weight content of between 0.5% and1.5% and between 1% and 3% by weight, such as a mixture containing 1% byweight of glycerine with 2% by weight of urea, relative to the totalweight of the composition.

Such a composition preferably obtained via an injection manufacturingprocess using water as dilution solvent especially has the advantage ofallowing good structuring of the powder. Moreover, the deposit made witha composition according to the invention having a good level of stayingpower, when dry or wet, makes it possible to ensure the remanence of theactive agent on the skin and thus to improve the efficacy of theskincare (moisturizing, cicatrizing and/or anti-ageing effect).

It has also been found, surprisingly, that the presence of these activeagent(s) in a solid makeup composition according to the invention makesit possible to avoid the phenomenon of delaking, i.e. the leaching ofthe organic lake(s) present in the composition. It is understood that,for the purposes of the present invention, water per se is notconsidered as an active agent. In other words, the hydrophilic activeagent is other than water.

Since the intermediate composition according to the invention compriseswater, this water lends itself particularly to the introduction ofhydrophilic active agents into the composition, in particular withoutany problem of stability of the composition and/or of the active agent.This is particularly interesting, in particular in the context ofskincare. Specifically, the eyeshadow, blusher and foundation powdercompositions known in the prior art, whether they are solid or liquid,rarely comprise water, and, if they do contain any, they are generallyunstable over time (i.e. they undergo phase separation or exudation).

Fatty Phase

A cosmetic composition according to the invention advantageouslycomprises at least one fatty phase as binder.

This fatty phase is preferably liquid. It preferably comprises at leastone oil, preferably a hydrocarbon-based oil.

The term “oil” means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that isliquid at room temperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760mmHg).

This fatty phase may in particular comprise at least one non-volatileoil and/or one volatile oil. Preferably, this fatty phase comprises atleast one non-volatile oil, preferably a hydrocarbon-based oil.Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free ofvolatile oil.

The content of oil in the said composition may range from 0.5% to 30% byweight, in particular from 5% to 20% by weight and better still from 8%to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-Volatile Oil

The term “non-volatile oil” means an oil that remains on the skin or thekeratin fibre at room temperature and pressure. More specifically, anon-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly greater than 200mg/cm²/min.

This non-volatile oil may be a hydrocarbon-based, silicone or fluorooil. It is preferably a hydrocarbon-based oil.

Non-volatile oils that may especially be mentioned include:

-   -   hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin,    -   hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl        esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate        and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate; triglycerides        formed from fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular whose        fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C₄ to C₃₆ and        especially from C₁₈ to C₃₆, these oils possibly being linear or        branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may        especially be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil,        alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, millet oil, barley oil,        quinoa oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, shea        butter oil, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach stone oil,        groundnut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil,        broccoli oil, calendula oil, camellina oil, carrot oil,        safflower oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut        oil, marrow seed oil, wheatgerm oil, jojoba oil, lily oil,        macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St-John's wort oil,        monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive        oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant pip oil, kiwi        seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio oil, pumpkin oil, quinoa        oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil,        castor oil and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or        alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those        sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the        names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel,    -   synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;    -   synthetic esters, for instance the oils of formula R₁COOR₂, in        which R₁ represents at least one linear or branched fatty acid        residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R₂ represents a        hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched,        containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that R₁+R₂ is        greater than or equal to 10. The esters may be chosen especially        from fatty acid esters of alcohols, for instance cetostearyl        octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl        myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl        palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl        isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for instance        isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate,        heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or        polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance        propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl        octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate,        alkyl benzoates, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene        glycol 2-diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C₁₂-C₁₅ alcohol        benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for instance        isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl        neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid        esters, for instance isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl        isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters, for        instance isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate,    -   polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for instance        dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate,    -   esters of diol dimers and of diacid dimers,    -   copolymers of diol dimer and of diacid dimer and esters thereof,        such as dilinoleyl diol dimer/dilinoleic dimer copolymers, and        esters thereof;    -   copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and esters thereof;    -   fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a        branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from        12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl        alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and        2-undecylpentadecanol,    -   C₁₂-C₂₂ higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid        and linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof;    -   dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being        identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate;    -   oils with a molar mass of between about 400 and about 10 000        g/mol, in particular about 650 to about 10 000 g/mol, in        particular from about 750 to about 7500 g/mol and more        particularly ranging from about 1000 to about 5000 g/mol;        mention may be made especially, alone or as a mixture, of (i)        lipophilic polymers such as polybutylenes, polyisobutylenes, for        example hydrogenated, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes,        vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, such as the        vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymer, and        polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) copolymers, such as the copolymers of        a C₂-C₃₀ alkene, such as C₃-C₂₂, and combinations thereof; (ii)        linear fatty acid esters containing a total carbon number        ranging from 35 to 70, for instance pentaerythrityl        tetrapelargonate; (iii) hydroxylated esters such as        polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate; (iv) aromatic esters such as        tridecyl trimellitate; (v) esters of fatty alcohols or of        branched C₂₄-C₂₈ fatty acids, such as those described in U.S.        Pat. No. 6,491,927 and pentaerythritol esters, and especially        triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate,        glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl 2-tridecyltetradecanoate,        pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate,        poly(2-glyceryl)tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl        2-tetradecyltetradecanoate; (vi) diol dimer esters and        polyesters, such as esters of diol dimer and of fatty acid, and        esters of diol dimer and of diacid.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises anon-volatile oil of plant origin, a polyol ester and a particularsynthetic ester. Preferably, this non-volatile oil of animal origin is acaprylic/capric acid triglyceride. Preferably, this polyol ester isdipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate. Preferably,this particular synthetic ester is stearyl octyldodecyl stearate.

As will be seen hereinafter, besides a non-volatile oil serving asbinder for the pulverulent phase, a non-volatile oil, which ispreferably different, may serve as solvent for at least oneorganopolysiloxane elastomer according to the invention. According toone preferred embodiment, at least one non-volatile oil serving asbinder for the pulverulent phase is hydrocarbon-based, whereas, whereappropriate, at least one non-volatile oil containing the saidorganopolysiloxane elastomer is a silicone oil.

Volatile Oil

The term “volatile oil” means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) that canevaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at roomtemperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a cosmeticvolatile oil, which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, avolatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm²/min,limits included.

To measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of oil or of oil mixture to betested are placed in a crystallizing dish 7 cm in diameter, which isplaced on a balance in a large chamber of about 0.3 m³ that istemperature-regulated, at a temperature of 25° C., andhygrometry-regulated, at a relative humidity of 50%. The liquid isallowed to evaporate freely, without stirring it, while providingventilation by means of a fan (Papst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, rotatingat 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical position above the crystallizing dishcontaining the said oil or the said mixture, the blades being directedtowards the crystallizing dish, 20 cm away from the bottom of thecrystallizing dish. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizing dishis measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed inmg of oil evaporated per unit of area (cm²) and per unit of time(minutes).

This volatile oil may be a hydrocarbon-based oil, silicone oil or fluorooil. It is preferably a hydrocarbon-based oil.

The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil mainly containing hydrogenand carbon atoms.

The term “silicone oil” means an oil containing at least one siliconatom, and especially containing Si—O groups. According to oneembodiment, the said composition comprises less than 10% by weight ofnon-volatile silicone oil(s), relative to the total weight of thecomposition, better still less than 5% by weight, or even is free ofsilicone oil.

The term “fluoro oil” means an oil comprising at least one fluorineatom.

The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/orphosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

The volatile oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containingfrom 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C₈-C₁₆ branched alkanes (alsoknown as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane, isodecane andisohexadecane.

The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may also be a linear volatile alkanecontaining 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular 9 to 15 carbon atoms andmore particularly 11 to 13 carbon atoms. Mention may be made especiallyof n-nonadecane, n-decane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane,n-tetradecane, n-pentadecane and n-hexadecane, and mixtures thereof.

Organopolysiloxane Elastomers

A composition according to the invention may comprise anorganopolysiloxane elastomer. This elastomer may serve as fatty-phasegelling agent.

These particular elastomers, when combined with the pulverulent phasethat is moreover required according to the invention, make it possibleto obtain softness and comfort properties (suppleness of the deposit)for the deposits formed on the skin from compositions comprising them.

The term “organopolysiloxane elastomer” means a supple, deformableorganopolysiloxane with viscoelastic properties and especially theconsistency of a sponge or a supple sphere. Its modulus of elasticity issuch that this material withstands deformation and has limitedstretchability and contractability. This material is capable ofregaining its original shape after stretching.

This organopolysiloxane is preferably crosslinked. Preferably, thiselastomer is non-cyclic. According to one preferred embodiment,organopolysiloxane elastomers having the INCI name dimethicone/vinyldimethicone copolymer are used.

An advantageous composition may comprise at least one organopolysiloxaneelastomer conveyed in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or siliconeoil, which is preferably non-volatile. Preferably, the said compositioncomprises at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in at leastone non-volatile silicone oil having the INCI name dimethicone.

Non-Emulsifying Organopolysiloxane Elastomers

Thus, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by crosslinkingaddition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least onehydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane containingethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in thepresence of a platinum catalyst; or by dehydrogenation crosslinkingcondensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxylend groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogenbonded to silicon, especially in the presence of an organotin; or bycrosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containinghydroxyl end groups and of a hydrolysable organopolysilane; or bythermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presenceof an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxanevia high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or anelectron beam.

Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinkingaddition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least twohydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxanecontaining at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded tosilicon, especially in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained byreaction of a dimethylpolysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groupsand of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane with trimethylsiloxy end groups, inthe presence of a platinum catalyst.

Compound (A) is the base compound for the formation oforganopolysiloxane elastomer, and the crosslinking is performed byaddition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence ofthe catalyst (C).

Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at leasttwo hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule.

Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, especially a linear-chainor branched-chain structure or a cyclic structure.

Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25° C. ranging from 1 to 50 000centistokes, especially so as to be miscible with compound (B).

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may bealkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substitutedalkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl;substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalenthydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate estergroup or a mercapto group.

Compound (A) may thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanescontaining trimethylsiloxy end groups,dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers containingtrimethylsiloxy end groups, and dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxanecyclic copolymers.

Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane containing atleast two lower alkenyl groups (for example C₂-C₄); the lower alkenylgroup may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These loweralkenyl groups may be located in any position of the organopolysiloxanemolecule, but are preferably located at the ends of theorganopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) may have abranched-chain, linear-chain, cyclic or network structure, but thelinear-chain structure is preferred. Compound (B) may have a viscosityranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, compound (B)has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25° C.

Besides the abovementioned alkenyl groups, the other organic groupsbonded to the silicon atoms in compound (B) may be alkyl groups such asmethyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups suchas phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl;and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxygroup, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.

The organopolysiloxanes (B) may be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes,methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanescontaining dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups,dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers containingdimethylvinylsiloxy end groups,dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymerscontaining dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups,dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containingtrimethylsiloxy end groups,dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymerscontaining trimethylsiloxy end groups,methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxanes containingdimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, anddimethylsiloxane-methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymerscontaining dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained byreaction of dimethylpolysiloxane containing dimethylvinylsiloxy endgroups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy endgroups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per moleculein compound (B) and of the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to siliconatoms per molecule in compound (A) is at least 5.

It is advantageous for compound (A) to be added in an amount such thatthe molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded tosilicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount of all theethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B) is within the rangefrom 1.5/1 to 20/1.

Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and isespecially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes,chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinicacid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.

The catalyst (C) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as cleanplatinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount ofcompounds (A) and (B).

The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer.

The term “non-emulsifying” defines organopolysiloxane elastomers notcontaining any hydrophilic chains, and in particular not containing anypolyoxyalkylene units (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene)or any polyglyceryl units.

The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles are preferably conveyed inthe form of a gel formed from an elastomeric organopolysiloxane includedin at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil. In thesegels, the organopolysiloxane particles may be spherical or non-sphericalparticles.

Spherical non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used include, forexample, those sold under the names DC 9040, DC 9041, DC 9509, DC 9505by the company Dow Corning.

Mention may also be made of those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15,KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44 by the companyShin-Etsu; Gransil SR 5CYC Gel, Gransil SR DMF 10 Gel and Gransil SRDC556 Gel from the company Gransil RPS from Grant Industries;1229-02-167, 1229-02-168 and SFE 839 from the company General Electric.

According to one particular embodiment, elastomers may be used as amixture with a cyclic silicone oil. An example that may be mentioned isthe mixture of crosslinked organopolysiloxane/cyclopentasiloxane or amixture of crosslinked organopolysiloxane/cyclohexasiloxane, forinstance Gransil RPS D5 or Gransil RPS D6 from the company GrantIndustries.

Emulsifying Organopolysiloxane Elastomers

The term “emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer” means anorganopolysiloxane elastomer comprising at least one hydrophilic chain,such as polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers andpolyglycerolated silicone elastomers.

The emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer may be chosen frompolyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers.

The polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomer is a crosslinkedorganopolysiloxane elastomer that may be obtained by crosslinkingaddition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least onehydrogen bonded to silicon and of a polyoxyalkylene containing at leasttwo ethylenically unsaturated groups.

Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinkingaddition reaction (A1) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least twohydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B 1) of polyoxyalkylenecontaining at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially inthe presence (C1) of a platinum catalyst, as described, for instance, inU.S. Pat. No. 5,236,986 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,412,004.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction ofpolyoxyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene)with dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxanewith trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A1) may bealkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl,ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetylor stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl,2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such asphenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such asan epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.

Compound (A1) may thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanescontaining trimethylsiloxy end groups,dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers containingtrimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxanecyclic copolymers,dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymerscontaining trimethylsiloxy end groups.

Compound (C1) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and isespecially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes,chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinicacid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.

Advantageously, the polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers maybe formed from divinyl compounds, in particular polyoxyalkylenescontaining at least two vinyl groups, which react with Si—H bonds of apolysiloxane.

Polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are especially described in U.S. Pat. No.5,236,986, U.S. Pat. No. 5,412,004, U.S. Pat. No. 5,837,793 and U.S.Pat. No. 5,811,487, the content of which is incorporated by reference.

Polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers that may be usedinclude those sold under the names KSG-21, KSG-20, KSG-30, KSG-31,KSG-32, KSG-33, KSG-210, KSG-310, KSG-320, KSG-330 and KSG-340 by thecompany Shin-Etsu, and DC9010 and DC9011 by the company Dow Corning.

The emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer may also be chosen frompolyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomers.

The polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomer according to theinvention is an organopolysiloxane elastomer that may be obtained bycrosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing atleast one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of polyglycerolated compoundscontaining ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presenceof a platinum catalyst.

Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinkingaddition reaction (A2) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least twohydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B2) of glycerolated compoundscontaining at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially inthe presence (C2) of a platinum catalyst.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of adimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated polyglycerolated compound and oftrimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydropolysiloxane, in the presence of aplatinum catalyst.

Compound (A2) is the base reagent for the formation of anorganopolysiloxane elastomer, and the crosslinking is performed byaddition reaction of compound (A2) with compound (B2) in the presence ofthe catalyst (C2).

Compound (A2) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at leasttwo hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule.

Compound (A2) may have any molecular structure, especially alinear-chain or branched-chain structure or a cyclic structure.

Compound (A2) may have a viscosity at 25° C. ranging from 1 to 50 000centistokes, especially so as to be miscible with compound (B2).

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in compound (A2) may bealkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl,ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetylor stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl,2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl,tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; andsubstituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group,a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group. Preferably, the saidorganic group is chosen from methyl, phenyl and lauryl groups.

Compound (A2) may thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanescontaining trimethylsiloxy end groups,dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers containingtrimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxanecyclic copolymers anddimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymerscontaining trimethylsiloxy end groups.

Compound (B2) may be a polyglycerolated compound corresponding toformula (B′) below:

C_(m)H_(2m-1)—O—[Gly]_(n)-C_(m)H_(2m-1)  (B′)

in which m is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, n is an integer rangingfrom 2 to 200, preferably ranging from 2 to 100, preferably ranging from2 to 50, preferably ranging from 2 to 20, preferably ranging from 2 to10 and preferentially ranging from 2 to 5, and in particular n is equalto 3; Gly denotes:

—CH₂—CH(OH)—CH₂—O— or —CH₂—CH(CH₂OH)—O—

Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per moleculein compound (B2) and of the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to siliconatoms per molecule in compound (A2) is at least 4.

It is advantageous for compound (A2) to be added in an amount such thatthe molar ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded tosilicon atoms in compound (A2) and the total amount of all theethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B2) is within the rangefrom 1/1 to 20/1.

Compound (C2) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and isespecially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes,chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinicacid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.

The catalyst (C2) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as cleanplatinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount ofcompounds (A2) and (B2).

The polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomer is conveyed in gelform in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil. Inthese gels, the polyglycerolated elastomer is often in the form ofnon-spherical particles.

Polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomers that may be used includethose sold under the names KSG-710, KSG-810, KSG-820, KSG-830 andKSG-840 by the company Shin-Etsu.

Advantageously, the organopolysiloxane elastomer under considerationaccording to the invention is chosen from spherical non-emulsifyingorganopolysiloxane elastomers, polyglycerolated organopolysiloxaneelastomers and polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomers.

Advantageously, the organopolysiloxane elastomer under considerationaccording to the invention is chosen from preferably sphericalnon-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomers.

Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is non-emulsifying, forexample in the case of eyeshadow compositions, and in particular in thecase of anhydrous compositions.

Preferably, the emulsifying system according to the invention does notcomprise any emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer.

Even more preferably, the composition comprises an organopolysiloxaneelastomer conveyed in a non-volatile oil combined with at least oneorganopolysiloxane elastomer in powder form. Such a combination may makeit possible to increase the percentage of elastomer solids within thesaid non-volatile oil, to better control its viscosity and to limit thecontent to be incorporated into the said composition in order, ifnecessary, to make space for other compounds such as colouring agentsand in particular nacres.

Such non-emulsifying elastomers in powder form especially comprise thosesold under the names DC 9506 or DC 9701 by the company Dow Corning.

Preferably, the composition comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomerchosen from the product sold under the name DC 9041 by the company DowCorning, KSG-16 by the company Shin-Etsu and DC 9701 by the company DowCorning, and a mixture thereof. Even more preferentially, thecomposition comprises at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer chosenfrom the product sold under the name DC 9041 by the company Dow Corningand KSG-16 by the company Shin-Etsu, in combination with anorganopolysiloxane elastomer sold under the name DC 9701 by the companyDow Corning.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises atleast one organopolysiloxane elastomer, alone or as a mixture, in asolids content ranging from 0.2% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.5%to 6% by weight and even more preferably from 1.5% to 3% by weight, andmore preferentially ranging from 2% to 3% by weight, relative to thetotal weight of the composition, for example about 2% by weight.

The organopolysiloxane elastomer may be present in a ratio such that themass proportion of organopolysiloxane elastomer relative to thepulverulent phase is between 0.05 and 0.35, preferably from 0.10 to 0.20and even more preferably from 0.10 to 0.12.

Emulsifying System

The composition according to the invention comprises an emulsifyingsystem comprising one or more surfactants. These surfactants may bepresent in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to thetotal weight of the composition, advantageously from 0.5% to 15% byweight, preferably ranging from 1% to 10% by weight and in particularfrom 1.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

An emulsifying surfactant appropriately chosen to obtain a water-in-oilemulsion is generally used. In particular, an emulsifying surfactanthaving at 25° C. an HLB balance (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) withinthe Griffin sense of less than or equal to 8 may be used.

The Griffin HLB value is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5),pages 249-256.

These surfactants may be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic andamphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof. Reference may be made toKirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Volume 22, pp.333-432, 3rd Edition, 1979, Wiley, for the definition of the emulsifyingproperties and functions of surfactants, in particular pp. 347-377 ofthis reference, for the anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants.

The surfactants preferentially used in the composition according to theinvention are chosen from:

a) nonionic surfactants with an HLB of less than 8 at 25° C., asmentioned above, for instance:

-   -   saccharide esters and ethers such as sucrose stearate, sucrose        cocoate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan        tristearate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate,        methylglucose isostearate, sucrose (poly)palmitostearate,        sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose tribehenate, sucrose        oleate, sucrose distearate, sucrose polylaurate, sucrose laurate        and sucrose hexaerucate, and mixtures thereof, for example        Arlatone 2121® sold by the company ICI or Span 65V from the        company Uniqema;    -   esters of fatty acids, especially of C₈-C₂₄ and preferably of        C₁₆-C₂₂, and of polyol, especially of glycerol or sorbitol, such        as glyceryl stearate, sold, for example, under the name Tegin M®        by the company Goldschmidt, polyglyceryl diisostearate,        polyglyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl        tetraisostearate, polyethylene glycol diisostearate,        polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, glyceryl monooleate, glyceryl        laurate, such as the product Imwitor 312® by the company Hills,        diethylene glycol (di)laurate, decaglyceryl pentaoleate,        decaglyceryl pentadiisostearate, glyceryl caprate/caprylate,        polyglyceryl-2 (iso)stearate and (poly)ricinoleate;    -   oxyalkylenated alcohols, in particular oxyethylenated and/or        oxypropylenated alcohols, which may comprise from 1 to 15        oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, in particular ethoxylated        C₉-C₂₄ and preferably C₁₂-C₁₈ fatty alcohols such as stearyl        alcohol ethoxylated with 2 oxyethylene units (CTFA name:        Steareth-2) such as Brij 72 sold by the company Uniqema, or        oxyethylenated oleyl alcohol;    -   fatty alcohols such as cetylstearyl alcohol,    -   oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated silicone compounds, for        example containing from 3 to 20 oxyalkylene units and especially        oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated dimethicones; it should be        noted that when a polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated        organopolysiloxane elastomer, referred to as being emulsifying,        where appropriate conveyed in a non-volatile oil, as described        above, is used, it may simultaneously be the surfactant and the        organopolysiloxane elastomer for the composition in accordance        with the invention;    -   the mixture of cyclomethicone/dimethicone copolyol sold under        the name Q2-3225C® by the company Dow Corning;

b) anionic surfactants such as:

-   -   salts of C₁₆-C₃₀ fatty acids, especially amine salts, such as        triethanolamine stearate or 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol        stearate;    -   polyoxyethylenated fatty acid salts, especially aminated salts        or salts of alkali metals, and mixtures thereof;    -   phosphoric esters and salts thereof, such as DEA oleth-10        phosphate (Crodafos N 10N from the company Croda) or        monopotassium monocetyl phosphate (Amphisol K from Givaudan or        Arlatone MAP 160K from the company Uniqema);    -   sulfosuccinates such as Disodium PEG-5 citrate lauryl        sulfosuccinate and Disodium ricinoleamido MEA sulfo succinate;    -   alkyl ether sulfates such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate;    -   isethionates;    -   acylglutamates such as Disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate        (Amisoft HS-21 R® sold by the company Ajinomoto), and mixtures        thereof.

c) cationic surfactants, among which mention may be made especially of:

-   -   alkylimidazolidiniums such as isostearylethylimidonium        ethosulfate,    -   ammonium salts such as (C₁₂₋₃₀ alkyl)tri(C_(h4) alkyl)ammonium        halides, for instance N,N,N-trimethyl-1-docosanaminium chloride        (or behentrimonium chloride).

d) amphoteric surfactants, for instance N-acylamino acids such asN-alkyl aminoacetates and disodium cocoamphodiacetate, and amine oxidessuch as stearamine oxide, or alternatively silicone surfactants, forinstance dimethicone copolyol phosphates such as the product sold underthe name Pecosil PS 100® by the company Phoenix Chemical;

and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the emulsifying system comprises at least one nonionicsurfactant of less than 8 at 25° C., chosen from saccharide esters,preferably a sorbitan stearate, and a polyoxyalkylenated orpolyglycerolated silicone compound, preferably a PEG-10 dimethicone, anda mixture thereof.

Preferably, the emulsifying system used in the present invention isother than an emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer. Preferably, acomposition according to the invention combines an emulsifying systemother than an emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer with anon-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer.

The composition in accordance with the invention may comprise anemulsifying system, in a content ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight,preferably from 1% to 5% by weight and even more preferably from 1.5% to3% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition.

It is understood that alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or transitionmetal salts, such as zinc stearate, zinc myristate or magnesiumstearate, are not considered within the meaning of the present inventionas forming an emulsifying system. Specifically, such compounds servefirst and foremost as fillers, and in particular as agents forcompacting the pulverulent phase.

Chelating Agents

According to one particularly advantageous embodiment, the compositionmay comprise a chelating agent. Such chelating agents are defined anddescribed in particular in the article “Chelating agents” Kirk OthmerEncyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Vol. 5 pp. 708-739, published in2003.

As mentioned in that article, this agent may be chosen frompolyphosphates, aminocarboxylic acids, 1,3-diketones, hydroxycarboxylicacids, polyamines, amino alcohols, heterocyclic aromatic bases,aminophenols, Schiff's bases, tetrapyrroles, sulfur compounds, syntheticmacrocyclic compounds, polymers and phosphonic acids.

Preferably, this agent is chosen from aminocarboxylic acids, and ispreferably EDTA.

These agents are particularly useful for reducing the electrostaticbonding associated with substantial presence of water in theintermediate makeup and/or care composition according to the invention.To do this, the addition of a sequestrant or of a complexing agent, forinstance tetrasodium EDTA, makes it possible to complex the free ions,and more specifically the cations of the type Ca²⁺ (mineral fillers)especially present in the nacres and fillers. Consequently, when EDTAcomplexes these ions, the ionic strength of the water decreases.

Adjuvants

The composition may comprise other ingredients (adjuvants) usually usedin cosmetics, such as preserving agents, UV screening agents, thickenersand fragrances.

Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to selectthe optional adjuvant(s) added to the composition according to theinvention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associatedwith the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or arenot substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

Assembly

According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmeticassembly comprising:

i) a container delimiting one or more compartment(s), the said containerbeing closed by a closing member; and

ii) a makeup and/or care composition in accordance with the inventionplaced inside the said compartment(s).

The container may be, for example, in the form of a jar or a box.

The closing member may be in the form of a lid or a tear-off cover. Inparticular, this closing member may comprise a cap mounted so as to beable to move by translation or by pivoting relative to the containerhousing the said makeup and/or care composition(s).

EXAMPLES 1/Face Powders

Two solid cosmetic compositions, in the form of compact face powdersaccording to the invention, were prepared as follows and, in a firststage, observed by the naked eye to evaluate the delaking and then, in asecond stage, tested as regards the moisturizing of the skin.

Phases Compounds % content 1 Synthetic fluorphlogopite (Synmica SuperC86- 25 3222 ® from Sun) Magnesium aluminium silicate (Veegum HV 2.1Granules ® from Vanderbilt) Zea mays starch (MST ® from LCW Sensient)2.1 Xanthan gum (Keltrol TF ® from CP Kelco) 0.1 Perlite powder (Optimat2550 OR ® from World 2.1 Minerals) Acrylate copolymer microspheres(Expancel ® from 2.8 Akzo Nobel) Hollow polymethyl methacrylatemicrospheres 9.1 (Covabead LH 85 ® from LCW Sensient) Hexamethylenediisocyanate/trimethylol hexyl 7 lactone polymer (Plastic Powder D-400 ®from Toshiki) Pigments including 0.88% of cochineal carmine 15 2Sorbitan stearate (Montane 60 Ecailles ® from 0.8 SEPPIC)Caprylyl/capric triglyceride (Miglyol 812 N ® from 0.8 Sasol)Dipentaerythrityl 0.7 tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate (Salacos 168EV ® from Nisshin Oillio) Octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate (Ceraphyl 847 ®1.3 from ISP) Caprylyl glycol (Dermosoft Octiol ® from Dr. 0.7Straetmans) Pentylene glycol (616751 Hydrolite-5 ® from 0.4 Symrise) 3Glycerol (from Emery Oleochemical GmbH) 30

Phases Compounds % content 1 Synthetic fluorphlogopite (Synmica SuperC86- 7.35 3222 ® from Sun) Magnesium aluminium silicate (Veegum HV 2Granules ® from Vanderbilt) Zea mays starch (MST ® from LCW Sensient) 2Xanthan gum (Keltrol TF ® from CP Kelco) 0.05 Perlite powder (Optimat2550 OR ® from World 2 Minerals) Acrylate copolymer microspheres(Expancel ® from 2 Akzo Nobel) Hollow polymethyl methacrylatemicrospheres 3 (Covabead LH 85 ® from LCW Sensient) Hexamethylenediisocyanate/trimethylol hexyl 2.5 lactone polymer (Plastic PowderD-400 ® from Toshiki) Boron nitride (Softouch Boron nitride Powder 6.5CC6058 from Momentive Performance Materials) Pigments including 0.88% ofcochineal carmine 26 NACRES 2 2 Sorbitan stearate (Montane 60 Ecailles ®from 0.8 SEPPIC) Caprylyl glycol (Dermosoft Octiol ® from Dr. 0.6Straetmans) Pentylene glycol (616751 Hydrolite-5 ® from 0.4 Symrise) 2′Dimethicone and Dimethicone Crosspolymer 9.3 (KSG 16 ® from Shin-Etsu,containing 24% organopolysiloxane elastomer solids) Dimethicone andDimethicone Crosspolymer (DC 0.7 9701 Cosmetic Powder ® from DowCorning, containing 93% organopolysiloxane elastomer solids) 3 Glycerol(from Emery Oleochemical GmbH) 28 Hexylene (from Archema) 2.5 WATER 1.5Tetrasodium EDTA (EDETA B Powder from 0.8 BASF)

Preparation Process

The procedure below was used to prepare the compositions according tothe invention.

1—Preparation of Phase 1:

The compounds of phase 1 and the pigments of phase 1 are weighed out ina stainless-steel crucible and then milled using a shredder, first oncefor 15 seconds at 1500 rpm and then three times for 1 minute at 3000rpm.

Where appropriate, the nacres that may be present are weighed out in asecond crucible and added to phase 1, and the preparation is then milledin a shredder (R5 or R5 plus) twice for 15 seconds at 1500 rpm.

2—Incorporation of Phase 2:

The compounds of phase 2 are weighed out in a 250 ml beaker and thenheated on a water bath at 75° C. When phase 2 has melted, it is stirredusing a deflocculator (Turbotest 33/300 PH—Rayneri, Group VMI) until avortex forms (about 300 rpm) and then added with stirring via the lid ofthe shredder once for 1 minute at 1500 rpm to the preparation of phase1.

2′—Preparation of Phase 2′:

Where appropriate, the compounds of phase 2′ mixed beforehand with adeflocculator are weighed out in a small stainless steel crucible, addedto the rest of the preparation and then milled in a shredder, first oncefor 1 minute at 1500 rpm and then twice for 2 minutes at 3000 rpm andfinally once for 1 minute at 3000 rpm.

3—Finishing of the Preparation:

The powder obtained is then diluted in demineralized water into whichhas previously been dispersed phase 3 in particular comprising the saidat least one hydrophilic active agent. The amount of water is between40% and 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition soas to obtain a viscosity suitable for a Pilote Back Injection machinesold by the company Nanyo Co. Ltd. This Back Injection machine makes itpossible to obtain the “powder-water” mixture, also known as a slurry,via the base of the cup and simultaneously to draw off part of thedilution water by suction. Throughout the injection of the product, theinjection mould is placed under vacuum so as to allow the removal of thewater, which is drawn off by suction and recovered in the vacuum trap.Placing under vacuum thus promotes the filling and homogenization of thecup.

The parts back-injected are then placed in a ventilated oven at 50° C.until their weight no longer changes. The product is then considered asbeing dry.

Visual Observation of the Compositions Prepared:

The compositions obtained do not to the naked eye show any delaking.

Specifically, whether in terms of texture or tint, the compositions arehomogeneous and do not form a crust at the surface.

Protocol for Evaluating the Moisturization:

Measurement Principle

The measurement is performed via an instrumental method using anSEI-M-0211-Combi-06 corneometer. This machine measures the electricalimpedance of the skin: the lower the value displayed, the moremoisturized the skin. To do this, the compositions according to theinvention were applied at a rate of 0.3 mg/cm² to the inner face of theforearms of a panel of 16 people with very dry skin. The moisturizationof the treated area was measured using the corneometer, and comparedwith bare skin at T0 (before application) and at different timeintervals: after 2 hours and after 4 hours.

Result

The results obtained with the applied powders according to the inventionshow that the moisturization of the skin is significant. Four hoursafter application of the compositions, a significant increase of morethan 14% of the moisturization of the treated area is still observed.

For comparative purposes, the degree of moisturization of the untreatedskin does not vary significantly during this time period.

The compositions according to the invention thus make it possible toimprove the moisturization of the skin, and this effect remainssignificant even 4 hours after application.

2/Eyeshadow

A solid cosmetic composition, in the form of compact eyeshadow powderaccording to the invention, was prepared as follows and, in a firststage, observed by the naked eye to evaluate the delaking and then, in asecond stage, tested as regards the impact strength and the remanence.

% content Phases Compounds Nacreous Satiny 1 Talc (Luzenac Pharma M ®from qs / Luzenac) Synthetic fluorphlogopite (Synmica Super / qsC86-3222 ® from Sun) Magnesium aluminium silicate (Veegum 3 HVGranules ® from Vanderbilt) Zea mays starch (MST ® from LCW 3 Sensient)Xanthan gum (Keltrol TF ® from CP 0.1 Kelco) Pigments including 0.88% ofcochineal 0.88-5   30 carmine 2 Nacres 55-60 30 3 Sorbitan stearate(Montane 60 Ecailles ® 2.3 2 from SEPPIC) Caprylyl/capric triglyceride(Miglyol 812 3.2 2.2 N ® from Sasol) Dipentaerythrityl 2.6 1.8tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate (Salacos 168 EV ® from NisshinOillio) Octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate (Ceraphyl 5.1 3 847 ® from ISP)Caprylyl glycol (Dermosoft Octiol ® from 1 Dr. Straetmans) 4 Dimethiconeand Dimethicone Cross- 7.8 polymer (KSG 16 ® from Shin-Etsu, containing24% organopolysiloxane elastomer solids) Dimethicone and DimethiconeCross- 0.2 polymer (DC 9701 Cosmetic Powder ® from Dow Corning,containing 93% organopolysiloxane elastomer solids) 5 Glycerol (fromEmery Oleochemical 5 GmbH)

Preparation Process

The procedure below was used to prepare the compositions according tothe invention.

1—Preparation of Phase 1:

The compounds of phase 1 and the pigments of phase 1 are weighed out ina stainless-steel crucible and then milled using a shredder, first oncefor 15 seconds at 1500 rpm and then three times for 1 minute at 3000rpm.

2—Preparation of Phase 2: The nacres of phase 2 are weighed out in asecond crucible and added to phase 1, and the preparation (phase 1+phase2) is then milled in a shredder (R5 or R5 plus) twice for 15 seconds at1500 rpm.

3—Incorporation of Phase 3:

The compounds of phase 3 are weighed out in a 250 ml beaker and thenheated on a water bath at 75° C. When phase 3 has melted, it is stirredusing a deflocculator (Turbotest 33/300 PH—Rayneri, Group VMI) until avortex forms (about 300 rpm) and is then added with stirring via the lidof the shredder once for 1 minute at 1500 rpm to the preparation (phase1+phase 2).

4—Preparation of Phase 4:

The compounds of phase 4 mixed beforehand with a deflocculator areweighed out in a small stainless-steel crucible, added to the rest ofthe preparation and then milled in a shredder, first once for 1 minuteat 1500 rpm and then twice for 2 minutes at 3000 rpm and finally oncefor 1 minute at 3000 rpm.

5—Finishing of the Preparation:

The powder obtained is then diluted in demineralized water in which haspreviously been diluted 5% of glycerine. The amount of water is between30% and 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition soas to obtain a viscosity suitable for a Pilote Back Injection machinesold by the company Nanyo Co. Ltd. This Back Injection machine makes itpossible to obtain the “powder-water” mixture, also known as a slurry,via the base of the cup and simultaneously to draw off part of thedilution water by suction. Throughout the injection of the product, theinjection mould is placed under vacuum so as to allow the removal of thewater, which is drawn off by suction and recovered in the vacuum trap.Placing under vacuum thus promotes the filling and homogenization of thecup.

The parts back-injected are then placed in a ventilated oven at 50° C.until their weight no longer changes. The product is then considered asbeing dry.

Visual Observation of the Composition Prepared:

The compositions obtained do not to the naked eye show any delaking.Specifically, whether in terms of texture or tint, the compositions arehomogeneous and do not form a crust at the surface.

Measurement of the Impact Strength:

Measurement Principle

The machine used to perform such a measurement, known as a PackageDrop-Test machine sold by the company Co Pack (Italy), makes it possibleto perform drop tests on the solid compositions in compact powder formto measure their impact strength. The drop height is 30 cm. By means ofa small ruler, the size of the support that holds the compact is set(according to the size of the crucible) and the compact is then droppedby means of compressed air that actuates the aperture of the support.

This machine replaces the manual drop tests performed previously by theformulator using a 30 cm ruler. In this new manner, they are repeatableand thus more reliable.

These drop tests are also included in the study of the stability of thecompacts prepared.

Results:

An eyeshadow (ES) obtained via a conventional compacting process, duringwhich the pulverulent phase is mixed with a fatty phase and the whole isthen compacted, generally withstands a number of drops of between 3 and8, with a maximum of 45% of nacres. By means of the various testsperformed on the nacreous tints according to the invention (containingmore than 55% of nacres), it was observed that the compact powdersaccording to the invention withstand a number of drops of between 10 and20. This number is much higher than that of a compact powder with ahigher percentage of nacres. The strength of the finished product wasthus markedly improved.

This improvement in the impact strength is explained according to theinventors by the particular structuring of the solid compositionaccording to the invention with the hydrophilic gelling agents and theemulsifying system, which makes it possible to obtain a compact powderthat is stronger than a compact powder obtained via the conventionalprocesses lacking such compounds. Furthermore, the water which servesfor the dilution and formation is very important, since it is this whichcreates the cohesion.

Measurement of the Remanence with Wet Application:

A measuring protocol was performed on 12 individuals and the result wasevaluated by 10 judges.

Measurement Principle

1—Makeup removal performed the evening before;2—Taking of a photo without makeup (0%);3—Application of ES with a wet applicator by 10 passes over the powderand then 10 passes over the eyelid, the operation being repeated twice;4—Taking of a photo at T0h (100%);5—Taking of a photo at T7h;6—The photos of the products, taking the 100% photo as reference, areevaluated with the naked eye under blind conditions so as to give foreach product an estimation of the percentage of remanence at 7 h between0 and 100% in intervals of 10%.

Result

The results obtained with the composition according to the inventionapplied wet show that the remanence of the ES according to the inventionis very good. Specifically, after 7 hours of application, during whichthe panelists are not subjected to any stress, 80% to 100% of theproduct remains on the eyelid after this period.

Another test performed under the same conditions moreover shows that awet application of a conventional ES (Ombre à Paupières Duo Lumière fromYSL) does not undergo any change in remanence, in contrast with that ofan ES according to the invention, whose remanence is significantlyimproved.

Finally, another test performed under conditions similar to thoseoutlined above, except that the applicator remains dry, showed that theremanence on dry application of an ES according to the invention is verygood but comparable to that of a conventional ES (Ombre à Paupières DuoLumière from YSL).

It is understood that, in the context of the present invention, theweight percentages given for a compound or a family of compounds arealways expressed as weight of solids of the compound in question.

Throughout the application, the term “comprises one” or “includes one”should be understood as meaning “comprising at least one” or “includingat least one”, unless otherwise specified.

1. A solid makeup, a care cosmetic composition; or a solid makeup andcare cosmetic composition, in the form of a compact powder, comprising,in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: pulverulent phase; anemulsifying system; a hydrophilic gelling agent; an organic lake; and ahydrophilic active agent with hygroscopic properties; wherein thehydrophilic active agent is present in a content of between 1% and 40%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; wherein thecomposition has a solids content of greater than or equal to 90%.
 2. Thecomposition of claim 1, comprising less than 3% by weight of waterrelative to the total weight of the composition.
 3. The composition ofclaim 1, in which the composition comprises a pulverulent phase in anamount of greater than or equal to 35% by weight relative to the totalweight of the composition.
 4. The composition of claim 1, comprising anorganic non-volatile oil present in a content of greater than or equalto 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
 5. Thecomposition of claim 4, in which the non-volatile oil is at least oneselected from the group consisting of a hydrocarbon-based oil and asilicone non-volatile oil.
 6. The composition of claim 1, in which theorganic lake is at least one selected from the group consisting of acochineal carmine, an organic pigment of azo, an organic pigment ofanthraquinone, an organic pigment of indigoid, an organic pigment ofxanthene, an organic pigment of pyrene, an organic pigment of quinoline,a triphenylmethane dye, a fluorane dye, sodium, potassium, calcium,barium, aluminium, zirconium, strontium, a titanium insoluble salt, andan acidic dye; wherein the dyes optionally comprise at least onecarboxylic group or sulfonic acid group or any combination thereof. 7.The composition of claim 1, comprising from 0.01% to 20% by weight intotal of organic lakes relative to the total weight of the composition.8. The composition of claim 1, in which the pulverulent phase comprisesa filler and an additional colouring agent is at least one selected fromthe group consisting of a nacre, a mineral pigment and a reflectiveparticle.
 9. The composition of claim 9, in which the additionalcolouring agent is present in a content ranging from 5% to 80% by weightrelative to the total weight of the composition.
 10. The composition ofclaim 1, in which the hydrophilic active agent is at least one selectedfrom the group consisting of a C₁-C₈ poly(ol) and a C₁-C₈ (poly)amine.11. The composition of claim 10, in which the hydrophilic active agentis at least one selected from the group consisting of sorbitol,glycerine, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol,diglycerine, glycerol, a derivative of glycerol, urea, and a derivativeof urea.
 12. The composition of claim 1, in which the emulsifying systemcomprises at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB of less than orequal to 8 at 25° C.
 13. The composition of claim 12, in which thesurfactant is at least one selected from the group consisting of asaccharide ester, a saccharide ether, a fatty acid ester, anoxyalkylenated alcohol, a fatty alcohol and a silicone compound.
 14. Thecomposition of claim 1, comprising at least one organopolysiloxaneelastomer.
 15. The composition of claim 1, in which the hydrophilicgelling agent is at least one selected from the group consisting of athickening filler, a polymeric thickener and an associative polymer. 16.The composition of claim 1, further comprising at least one chelatingagent.
 17. The composition of claim 1, in which the composition is aface powder or an eyeshadow.
 18. A process for manufacturing thecosmetic makeup, the care composition, or the cosmetic makeup and carecomposition of claim 1 from an intermediate composition comprising:injecting the intermediate composition into a mould via its base;wherein the intermediate composition comprises an aqueous phase that hasa content ranging from 40% to 60% by weight relative to the total weightof the composition; removing the aqueous phase from the intermediatecomposition; wherein the removal may occur partly simultaneously withthe injecting.
 19. The process of claim 18, in which at least onehydrophilic active agent is predispersed in the aqueous phase beforebeing placed in contact with the pulverulent phase for the injectionstep.
 20. The process of claim 1, in which the process furthercomprises: applying the composition to the skin.